I have the arm set so the top of the bar is exactly centered on the 3rd notch from the bottom. Sometimes students who are using my jig change things, which is fine because now I can get it back to my position. I drilled my jig so I can place a 1/8' drill in the holes and get it back to the exact setting. I finally decided it was a waste of time. I went through a spell where I was trying to learn what the different angles do to the grind. That's really handy for things like hand sharpening the Stewart Batty grind or hand sharpening skews. You set the flat on the grinder tool rest and then adjust it until the 2 points touch the grinding wheel. Just cut a flat on the bottom instead of the point that goes into the V arm. It also works well great for setting the Oneway grinding table. I found the 3 point reference to be more exact.

It is just to easy to not get it the exact same distance. Mark I tried using a straight stick between the V arm and the wheel. If you sharpen using the Wolverine jig it doesn't matter if the tool gets shorter as long as you extend it the same amount from the jig each time. don't know where they got the idea, possibly from Mike Darlow's books as well. Then many years later the Raptors came out. After I built one I came up with the wooden jigs. It is a very good jig but kind of complicated to build. I should give credit to Mike Darlow in his book he shows a jig that uses 3 points of reference to place the V arm. I have one for my spindle gouge and one for another gouge that I sharpen inbetween my standard bowl gouge grind and spindle gouge grind.

That moves the tool forward and sharpens it at a steeper angle. For the Spindle gouges I simply drop a short V block into the V arm. I now have a CBN wheel and have my V arm locked at the Bowl gouge distance. I have different wooden jigs to set the V arm for them and it's much quicker than the PVC. For example I use different angles on my spindle gouges but sharpen them with the wolverine jig. It obviously works well but my system works because you can make a jig for any grind. What I don't like about the PVC is if you need to vary the V arm distance for different tools. View attachment 21007 View attachment 21008 View attachment 21009 Mark.It appears as though you've already decided on the method you want to use, and by posting this, I'm only giving an alternative method in this thread.for general thought on the subject. (If you want a longer, or shorter bevel, this can easily be done by adjusting the length of the v-arm incrementally.)įor seeing how the existing bevel matches the wheel more clearly, a piece of white paper can be attached to a short stick that pivots out of the way, on a magnet. Those using cbn wheels, in conjunction with a vari-grind (or Ellsworth jig) can rely on settings never changing (as long as the extension in the vari-grind jig remains a constant).however, those who are using matrix wheels and standard grind, need a method of matching an existing grind to the wheel, because the length of the tool and the diameter of the wheel will change.īy looking at how the bevel matches the wheel surface from the side, it's a snap to adjust the v-arm perfectly, so the bevel matches the wheel surface. This works for both the vari-grind jig/v-arm, and the standard (traditional) grind, using only the V-arm. There is another method of matching a current existing gouge grind to the wheel that works perfectly every time.

Raptor tool holding